A small rock in the Atlantic

All about the island of La Palma, in the Canaries.

Click for La Palma, Canary Islands Forecast

Thursday, 4 August 2011

Las Nieves Fiesta

Las Nieves will be holding its annual fiesta starting on Friday at about 1 am. It's quite a big fiesta as Our Lady of the Snows (the Virgin Mary) is the patron saint of the island. The church holds a statue of the her in painted terracotta, from the 15th century, standing on a marble throne covered with silver.

Las Nieves is a pretty hamlet, in the municipality of Santa Cruz, but about 2 km outside it as the crow flies. Normally it's quiet, but it'll be jam packed on Friday and all weekend, with mobile bars and stalls selling cheap toys. The secular party goes on all day, with lots of special masses and processions in between.

Labels: , ,

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon

Monday, 23 May 2011

More at Las Nieves


Casa de los Romeros Las Nieves

There are several things to see in the centre of Las Nieves, apart from the church. This house was built for pilgrims in 1653, on the site of an even older building. It's been restored several times since then. There's also a house (on my right as I took this photo) where they sell things like postcards, rosaries and religious medals.


Canons on the hill above Las Nieves

La Palma used to have a serious problem with marauding pirates. Since the church is only a few kilometres from the coast, and contains quite a lot of gold, silver and gemstones, they had to be ready for trouble. If you climb the short path beside the pilgrims' house, you arrive at this hilltop where four cannons have been left. I presume they used to have wooden stands which have long since rotted away. The other thing up there is a pretty good view down towards Santa Cruz and across to Llano Grande. (The path's a bit rough. Don't wear stilettos!)

And on the opposite side of the valley, there's a sentry post. Although to be honest, I don't know if this dates from the time when pirates were a problem, or from the Spanish Civil War.


Sentry post, Las Nieves

If you work up a hunger and thirst seeing with all the sightseeing, there's a bar/restaurant on the main square. The food in the restaurant is what's called typica - mostly grilled meat and salad with either chips or wrinkly potatoes.

Labels: ,

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Las Nieves

Las Nieves church, Santa Cruz de la Palma

I can't believe that I haven't written about Las Nieves church before.

Las Nieves is a pretty hamlet, in the municipality of Santa Cruz, but about 2 km outside it as the crow flies. If you're fairly fit, there's a pretty (but rough and steep) footpath between the two.


Las Nieves church, Santa Cruz de la Palma


More importantly, Las Nieves has the most gorgeous church on the island. It's also the oldest one, dating from at least 1423 (they had missionaries here before the conquest in 1493). I'm sure the current building must be newer, if only because of its size. It's a very popular place to get married.

The fountain outside Las Nieves church, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Our Lady of the Snows (the Virgin Mary) is the patron saint of the island, and statue of the her is painted terracotta, from the 15th century. The throne she stands on is marble covered with silver. (It's not too clear in the photo, but it's the thing behind the altar with all the flowers on it.)

Every five years the island has a massive fiesta where the statue of the Virgin comes down to Santa Cruz for five weeks. First they bring down the throne, which separates into 12 pieces (which are still darned heavy). That isn't so much a religious procession as a party, five miles long. Some people are staggering by the time they reach Santa Cruz. Then, a week later, they bring down the statue of the Virgin, which is a much more solemn ocassion.

Interior of Las Nieves church, Santa Cruz de la Palma

The Calvary statues are from the middle of the 16th century, and really beautiful.


There are also four paintings in the church, given as thanks for miraculous rescues from storms at sea.

Painting in Las Nieves church, Santa Cruz de la Palma

>Visiting hours: Mondays to Sundays from 8 am to 8 pm.

Labels: , ,

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon

Monday, 5 July 2010

Moving the Throne

The huge crowd accompanying the Virgin's throne, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la PalmaThe huge crowd accompanying the Virgin's throne, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la Palma

The main event on Sunday was the huge procession to bring the Virgin's throne down from Las Nieves to Santa Cruz de la Palma.

The throne comes apart into perhaps twenty pieces, each mad of wood, covered with silver. It's a great honour to carry one, but some of the sections look like they weigh a ton.

Pieces of the Virgin's throne, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la PalmaPieces of the Virgin's throne, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Last time I went to the bajada del trono it was baking hot. Sunday was cloudy, which is most unusual for July. That made the light less attractive for photography, but much pleasanter for walking along in a crowd.

And what a crowd! According to the island government, there were 72,000 of us. Certainly the full width of the road was jammed solid for at least the half-kilometre I could see. Considering that the normal population of the island is 86,000 that's amazing. Of course lots of ex-pat Palmerans come home for the bajada, and lots of tourists come too. I wouldn't be surprised if the island sank a little lower into the sea under the weight of all the visitors.

Child in traditional dress, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la PalmaChild in traditional dress, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Many of the crowd wore the traditional dress. I think they look lovely, especially the little kids, but the costume is very slow to make yourself (all that embroidery!) or expensive to buy. Maybe for the next bajada. And cute as the infants are, I think a lot of them found it all too much.

Child in traditional dress, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la PalmaChild in traditional dress, Las Nieves, Santa Cruz de la Palma

People come from all over the Canary Islands. I enjoyed the group of guitarists and singers from Lanzarote, but my favourite was the group of musicians and dancers from El Hierro, dressed in white and red.

El Hierro is the smallest of the Canary islands, and they ahve their own bajada every four years. Although El Hierro is only 12 km across, they carry the statue of the virgin right the way across the island, dancing all the way (in shifts.) When I first heard the music on the TV, I found it far too shrill, but when you hear it live, the WHUMP! Of the big drums balances out the flutes beautifully, and you want to dance.

Dancers from El Hierro, Bajada de la Virgen, Dancers from El Hierro, Bajada de la Virgen, Santa Cruz de la Palma


Lots of other groups of friends brought their guitars and mandolins, and were singing traditional songs as they went. Most of the crowd bring along drinks and snacks, either in shoulder bags and traditional wine-skins, or on wheels. I saw quite a few decorated supermarket trolleys, including one that had a barbecue going. Yup, they were grilling sausages as they went.

Mobile BBQ,  Bajada de la VirgenMobile BBQ, Bajada de la Virgen, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Although this is was a big event, the really big procession takes place on July 17th, when they bring the statue of the Virgin herself down to Santa Cruz. That's usually a much more solemn, religious affair.
The huge crowd accompanying the Virgin's throneThe huge crowd accompanying the Virgin's throne, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Labels: , , ,

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

Fiestas in Las Nieves and El Paso

Inside Las Nieves Church, La Palma
Inside Las Nieves Church

Today is the fiesta of the patron saint of La Palma, the Virgin of Las Nieves. It's also a public holiday for the whole island.

Las Nieves is about 2 km inland from Santa Cruz de la Palma. When I went this morning, it was impossible to park within a mile of the fiesta. Sorry, I just turned around and went home. I expect it's much like other years - lots of stalls selling food and drink and souvenirs, and a religious procession at some point in the day.

Meanwhile, El Paso has it's once-every-three-years fiesta going on for most of the month. They have things going on all month, but the main event is the romerĂ­a on Sunday 16th. This is a cross between a religious procession and a party, where they take the statue of the Virgin on the Pine from the hermitage of the same name, to the church in the town. RomerĂ­as are usually great fun, with people taking along instruments to sing folk songs on the way, and wagons handing out free food and drink - usually friend pork and wine.

Labels: , , , ,

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

More at Las Nieves


Casa de los Romeros Las Nieves

There are several things to see in the centre of Las Nieves, apart from the church. This house was built for pilgrims in 1653, on the site of an even older building. It's been restored several times since then. There's also a house (on my right as I took this photo) where they sell things like postcards, rosaries and religious medals.


Canons on the hill above Las Nieves

La Palma used to have a serious problem with marauding pirates. Since the church is only a few kilometres from the coast, and contains quite a lot of gold, silver and gemstones, they had to be ready for trouble. If you climb the short path beside the pilgrims' house, you arrive at this hilltop where four cannons have been left. I presume they used to have wooden stands which have long since rotted away. The other thing up there is a pretty good view down towards Santa Cruz and across to Llano Grande. (The path's a bit rough. Don't wear stilettos!)

And on the opposite side of the valley, there's a sentry post. Although to be honest, I don't know if this dates from the time when pirates were a problem, or from the Spanish Civil War.


Sentry post, Las Nieves

If you work up a hunger and thirst seeing with all the sightseeing, there's a bar/restaurant on the main square. The food in the restaurant is what's called typica - mostly grilled meat and salad with either chips or wrinkly potatoes.

Labels:

Bookmark with:

Del.icio.us Digg Reddit Facebook Furl It Newsvine StumbleUpon ToolbarStumbleUpon