Photos of Los Indianos

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Carnival Programme for Monday and Tuesday

Santa Cruz de la Palma: even the statues join in Los Indianos

Monday 7th March

Santa Cruz de la Palma

Los Indianos

For most people, this is the big event. Many poor Palmerans emigrated to Cuba and Venezuela. This fiesta celebrates the ones who came home rich. Everybody dresses in white, some have suitcases full of monopoly money, and it's a giant talc-throwing fight. The local bus company lays on extra buses. You can see the timetable at http://www.transporteslapalma.com/transportes/Mapas/Indianos2011.pdf

10:00 h. Waiting for the return of the emigrants in the plaza de España

10.00-14:00 h. Performance by the Orquesta Ritmo in the Plaza de la Alameda.

From 11:00 h. Groups playing traditional music in various parts of town

12:00 h. Performance of traditional Cuban music by “Cuarto Son”, in the plaza de España and reception for Tomasa the Black Lady, accompanied by the Academy of Musical Instruments from CajaCanarias, and dancing the Conga from the port to the Plaza de España.

13:00 h. Lunch for children from the Sahara in the sports centre at the Avenida Marítima.

15:00-18:00 h. Performance by Tinguaro A.K.A Mensey Live, Canarian artist now living in Barcelona.

16:30 h. Distribution of talc by the Fiestas Department of the Town Hall in the Avenida de Los Indianos (the main road out of town heading south.) Come to think of it, having a town hall department for fiestas sounds like a good idea to me.

17:00 h. Main Carnival Parade for los Indianos from the avenida de Los Indianos to the plaza de la Alameda.

18:00 -01:00 h. Public dance with music by orquesta libertad, in the plaza de la Alameda.

22:00-06:00 h. Public dance de Los Indianos, at the Carnival stage with music from the bands Arena Caliente, Salsaludando and Irosan, "for the delight of locals and visitors who come to this festival which transcends frontiers."

Los Llanos

11.00 hrs. Children's activities in the Plaza de España)

(22.00 hrs. Public dance with the bands Bolero and Los Geniales at the Carnival stage

Tuesday 8th March

Santa Cruz de la Palma

17:00 h. Fancy Dress Ball at the Old People's Day Centre, with music from orquesta Ritmo.

Los Llanos

17.00 hrs. Carnival parade with street musicians, krewes, percussion, floats, etc. from the Avda. Enrique Mederos to the Plaza de España.

Flying talc: Los Indianos, Santa Cruz de la Palma

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Los Indianos

One minutes our of a whole night's partying.

As usual, the little kids are the cutest.


Sometimes the talc can get a bit much. I wonder why I never thought of this solution?

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Canival programme during the week

Santa Cruz de La Palma
Monday, 23rd February LOS INDIANOS - the main event for most people. At one time many Palmerans left the island in search of a better life in the Caribean. Los Indianos celebrates
those who came home again stinking rich. Basically, almost everyone wears white, usually "Gone with the Wind" style dresses for the women, and suits and Panama hats for the men. Some people carry cardboard suitcases, and everybody throws truly amazing quantities of talc at each other. If you dress up and join the parade, the town hall will provide talc. I believe last year they handed out five tones of the stuff and of course most people bought more. The talc is considerably cheaper at the supermarket then at the carnival stalls, and you probably want at least 500g per person. Lots of photos from two years ago here, and a description of last year's event here.

Give it a miss if you have bad asthma, or you're shaky on your feet - the ground gets very slippy. Otherwise make sure you see at least a bit of it. People come from South America for this!

10 am. Waiting. Dignitares wait outside the town hallto greet old friends, neighbours and family who wen to (south) American in search of fortune. Today they come to stir upthe town with Cuban rhythms.

11:00-12:30 am. Cuban music from Los Viejos in la plaza de la Alameda.

11:30 am - 1 00 pm. Tradicional Cuban Music from Pimienta and Ají in the plaza de España. During the performance, the dignitaries will recieve "la Negra Tomasa", a traditional character who represents the returning Palmerans.

And then there's something called "La Batatita, Las Chancleteras y el Manisero," performed by the students of the Municipal Theatre School.

12:30-2:00 pm. Cuban Music from Son Bohemio in la plaza de la Alameda.

13:00-14:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya in la plaza de España.

14:30 pm. I Festival Pimienta y Ají in la plaza de Santo Domingo with traditional Cuban music from various groups.

14:30-16:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in la plaza de España.

16:00-17:00 pm. Yet more traditional Cuban music from Parranda del Gofio in the Plaza de España.

16:30 pm. Official reception for Los Indianos and the talc battle starts.

17:00 pm. The main procession of Los Indianos from Avenida de Los Indianos (the main road leading south out of town) to the plaza de la Alameda.

17:00-18:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Son Bohemio in the plaza de la Alameda.

17:30-19:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the groups ONG El Cardero Punto Com y Punto on the carnival stage.

18:30-20:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

19:00-20:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya on the carnival stage.

20:00-21:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

21:30-23:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

23:00-00:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

24:00 pm. Public dance with music performed by Salsaludando, Arena Caliente, Geniales and Rica Band on the carnival stage.

00:30-02:00 am. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

Martes, 24 de febrero

17:00 pm. Dance in fancy dress at the Day Centre for Pensioners

19:00 pm. Carnival Festival, with a performances by the La Longuera, Dance School, Ventacayce Cultural Centre, La Palma Dance School, La Encarnación childen's group, Chango Batuka Workshop Calcinas Dance Group and Devorah Velásquez León, at the carnival stage.

Viernes, 27 de febrero

21:00 pm. THE SARDINE'S FUNERAL This is the other crazy night, although the funeral in Santa Cruz seems to be less popular each year, whereas the one in Los Sauces gets more popular (that one's on March 9th this year). Yes, it's a funeral procession for a huge papiere mache sardine, complete with fake priests and moUrners howling with fake grief. It's like being inside a Monty Python sketch. (There's a longer description with photos here)

The funeral procession for Lady Sardine leaves the Plaza de la Alameda at 9p,and heads for the carnival stage. On arrival, the cremation and fireworks (NB the locals stand well back for a good reason!) After that there will be a public dance with music from Salsaludando and Los Geniales at the carnival stage.

Los Llanos de Aridane

MONDAY, February 23
11 a.m. CHILDREN'S WORKSHOP
Plaza de España

4.30 p.m. Parade and children's mask contest
Carnival Scene

10 p.m. Public Dance
with the musical group Libertad and Bolero at the Carnival Stage

TUESDAY, February 24
5 p.m. CARNIVAL COSO
with a carnival groups parades: murgas, comparsas, batucadas, carrozas, etc.
From “La Vera de Argual” to Plaza de España.

WEDNESDAY, Feburary 25
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

THURSDAY, February 26
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

FRIDAY, February 27
9:30 p.m. The Sardine's Funeral (See the description for Sana Cruz, or a longer description with photos here)

The Burial starts at 1:00 p.m. in El Camino Los Lomos – Los Pedregales, from where the funeral procession leaves at 7:00 p.m. towards La Calle Ramón Pol.
Once the funeral procession arrives, the Sardine will e cremated.

10:00 p.m. VERBENA
With Ricaband and Grupo Libertad orchestras at the Carnival Stage

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Los Indianos

The biggest night of Carnival on the island is Los Indianos parade.

In the 19th century the island was very poor, and many people emigrated to Cuba - the Indies. Some of them came back rich, so that the arrival of a boat from Cuba was quite an event, even though there were more boats to Latin America than to mainland Spain.

So we have a pretend boatload of nouveau-riche arrivals, parading along the main street. The women all dressed in beautiful white plantation dressed and the men in white linen slacks, frilly white shirts, and panama hats. Many carry suitcases with monoploy money poking out.



And people throw vast quantities of talc at each other. By vast, I mean tons. Literally tons. The town hall gave away something like five tons of the stuff to people in the parade, and everyone else brings at least half a kilo of their own. The population of Santa Cruz is about fifteen thousand, and most of them are on the streets. And people come from all over the rest of the island too. In fact, people come from the other Canary Islands, and a few come all the way from South America. Every parking space in town is full, and parked cars line the main road to the airport for at least three kilometers. There are extra buses.

So the streets are heaving with people dressed in white, covered in white powder, blowing whistles and shaking maracas. (The top photo is from before things really got cracking.) All this starts at about five o'clock in the afternoon, and goes on until well after midnight. The morning after is a local holday, but the few times I've had to work, I've seen a few people still celebrating at eight o'clock next morning. Palmerans don't overdo things by halves.

And this year I missed it, due to a heavy cold. But you can see photos from last year at my main website.

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