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Monday, 21 March 2011

Photos of the Sardine in Los Sauces

Drag queens at the sardine's funeral, Los Sauces, March 19th 2011Drag queens at the sardine's funeral

Here are some photos of the Sardine's funeral at Los Sauces.

Drag queens at the sardine's funeral, Los Sauces, March 19th 2011Drag queens at the sardine's funeral

Drag queen singing a servillana at the sardine's funeralDrag queen singing a servillana at the sardine's funeral

Party-goer dressed as a brideParty-goer dressed as a bride

The crowd themselves provided pretty good entertainment, too. Not everyone was in fancy dress, but there were some great costumes there.


Party-goers dressed as witches at the sardine's funeral Party-goers dressed as witches at the sardine's funeral

Party-goer in drag at the sardine's funeral at Los Sauces, March 19th 2011Party-goer in drag at Los Sauces

Devil and angel at the sardine's funeral at Los Sauces, March 19th 2011Devil and angel at Los Sauces


Party-goers  in drag  at the sardine's funeral at Los Sauces, March 19th 2011Party-goers in drag at Los Sauces, March 19th 2011

After the drag queens, it was time for the funeral procession. Most places have the sardine on the back of a lorry, but in sauces, the huge bier is hand carried, and they toss it around as though it’s on a rough sea. I hope to get some video up later. Meanwhile, here’s some photos.
The Sardine's Funeral, Los Sauces, 2011The Sardine's Funerals 2011 The Sardine's Funeral, Los Sauces, 2011The Sardine's Funeral Procession passing the church, 2011

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Thursday, 17 March 2011

The Sardine's Funerals 2011

Poster for the Sardine's funeral in Puntallana, 2011Poster for the Sardine's funeral in Puntallana

How many funerals can you hold for a sardine? On La Palma, at least five.

Los Llanos and Santa Cruz have already held theirs, but Puntalllana's is on Friday night at 10 pm, and it's got a 1960s theme.


The most famous sardine's funeral on the island is at Los Sauces. This year it will be on Saturday 19th, with batucada (serious percussion) at 8 pm, drag queens at 8:30 pm and the funeral itself at 9:30 pm.

Los Cancajos will hold a carnival parade along the main street on Friday 18th at 5:30 pm and on Saturday 19th at 6 pm there's a children's fiesta in front of the Centro Comercial Cancajos.
Poster for Carnival in Los Cancajos, 2011Poster for Carnival in Los Cancajos, 2011


And finally, Barlovento will cremate their sardine on Saturday the 26th.

The Sardine's funeral in Los Sauces, 2008The Sardine's funeral in Los Sauces

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Tuesday, 8 March 2011

Carnival programme for Wednesday to Friday: Santa Cruz and Los Llanos

Funeral procession for the Sardine, Santa Cruz de la PalmaFuneral procession for the Sardine, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Wednesday 9th March


The Sardine's funeral This is probably the second biggest event in Carnival. As the name suggests, it's a funeral for a gigantic sardine, and downright Pythonesque too. Wear black and/or drag, and be prepared to wail with fake grief. Wednesday in Santa Cruz, Friday in Los Llanos, Saturday 19th in Los Sauces (a particularly good one)

Santa Cruz de la Palma

18:00h. Reception and Wake for the Sardine, in the Plaza de la Alameda, with music by Orquesta Ritmo and distribution of grilled sardines (There are very tasty, but a little salty. Decide who's driving first.)

21:00 h. The funeral cortege for D.ª Sardina leaves the plaza de la Alameda and heads towards the carnival stage. Once it arrives, the sardine will be cremated amid fireworks at the avenida Marítima. Afterwards, public dance with music by the musical band “Arena Caliente” at the carnival stage.

Los Llanos

11.00 hrs. Children's activities in the Plaza de España

20.00 hrs. Murgas in the Cultural Centre at El Retamar


Thursday 10th March

Santa Cruz de la Palma

18:00 hrs. Parade of carnival krewes and percussion groups from the Avenida El Puente to the Carnival stage. Afterwards, Drag Queen festival, with performances by various dance groups and artists from outside the island.

Los Llanos

11.00 hrs. Children's activities in the Plaza de España

17:00 hrs Children's fancy dress party. Bouncy castles, music, costume competition, have your photo taken with models (I think this means people like Micky Mouse)

Friday 11th March

Santa Cruz de la Palma

From 17:00 hrs. Masked ball in the Plaza de la Alameda with Orquesta Ritmo.

18:00 hrs. Groups of mariachis performing in the streets from Avenida El Puente to the carnival stage on the Avenida Marítima. Afterwards, Festival of Mariachis with performances by Mariachis Michoacán and Mariachis Mencey Azteca, at the carnival stage.

22:00 hrs. Public dance with music by “Los Geniales” and “Arena Caliente” at the carnival stage.

Los Llanos

11.00 hrs. Children's activities in the Plaza de España

13:00 hrs Start of the Sardine's funeral. Wake at El Camino Los Lomos.

19:00 hrs Funeral procession, accompanied by El Galvao leaves for Los Pedregales.

21:30 hrs On arrival, cremation of the sardine.

22:00 hrs public dance, with music by Bolero and Irosan


Cremation of the Sardine, Santa Cruz de la PalmaCremation of the Sardine, Santa Cruz de la Palma

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Friday, 26 February 2010

I Don't Believe It!

(said in my best Victor Meldrew impersonation.)

We're on orange alert again, because there's yet another storm headed our way.

This one is small and intense and due to hit tonight with wind gusts up to 160 km/h on the peaks and possible heavy rain. The only good bit is that it's zipping along so fast that it should be over by lunchtime Saturday.

The observatory has been evacuated, the Octopus's funeral tonight has been postponed again, along with the hiking club's coast-to-coast walk on Saturday.

I haven't heard anything definite about the Sardine's Funeral on Saturday in Los Sauces. The storm may well have gone by then.

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Tuesday, 23 February 2010

An Octupus and a Sardine

Poster for the Octopus's Funeral, Los Cancajos, La Palma Island
The Octopus's funeral has been rescheduled for Friday 26th.

The procession will leave the pharmacy at 8 pm and make its way to the beach, where the octopus will be cremated. There will be fireworks and dancing. Everybody welcome.
This is a new fiesta, so it'll be interesting to see

Meanwhile the sardine's funeral at Los Sauces will take place on Saturday 27th. The percussion music starts at 8 pm and the funeral procession starts at 9:30 pm in the main square by the church. Last time I saw it, it was wonderful.

And I believe that Barlovento will hold their sardine's funeral the weekend after, on March 5th or 6th. Watch this space.

Poster for the Sardine's Funeral, Los Sauces, La PAlma island

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Wednesday, 11 March 2009

Rescheduled Sardine's Funerals

It poured with rain last Friday, so Los Sauces have rescheduled their sardine's funeral to Saturday 14th at 9:30 pm. This is a pity, because now it clashes with Barlovento's sardine's funeral, at 10:30 pm the same night.

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Friday, 6 March 2009

A Whole Shoal of Sardines

Carnival is officially over in most places, but if you missed the Sardine's funeral in Santa Cruz and Los Llanos, you still have four chances to pay your last respects.

Puntallana hold their sardine's funeral tonight at 10 pm, and the little village of Los Galguitos in San Andres y Sauces holds theirs tonight too, but I haven't been able to find out when.

Los Sauces hold theirs tomorrow (Saturday) at 9 pm. This is perhaps the most famous sardine's funeral on the island. I went last year and it was wonderful - like being inside a Monty Python sketch.

And I have an unconfirmed report that Barlovento will bury theirs on Friday the 13th. Incidentally, the Spanish aren't a bit superstitious about Friday the 13th. They worry about Tuesday the 13th instead.

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Sunday, 22 February 2009

Canival programme during the week

Los Indianos, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Santa Cruz de La Palma
Monday, 23rd February
LOS INDIANOS - the main event for most people. At one time many Palmerans left the island in search of a better life in the Caribean. Los Indianos celebrates
those who came home again stinking rich. Basically, almost everyone wears white, usually "Gone with the Wind" style dresses for the women, and suits and Panama hats for the men. Some people carry cardboard suitcases, and everybody throws truly amazing quantities of talc at each other. If you dress up and join the parade, the town hall will provide talc. I believe last year they handed out five tones of the stuff and of course most people bought more. The talc is considerably cheaper at the supermarket then at the carnival stalls, and you probably want at least 500g per person. Lots of photos from two years ago here, and a description of last year's event here.

Give it a miss if you have bad asthma, or you're shaky on your feet - the ground gets very slippy. Otherwise make sure you see at least a bit of it. People come from South America for this!

10 am. Waiting. Dignitares wait outside the town hallto greet old friends, neighbours and family who wen to (south) American in search of fortune. Today they come to stir upthe town with Cuban rhythms.

11:00-12:30 am. Cuban music from Los Viejos in la plaza de la Alameda.

11:30 am - 1 00 pm. Tradicional Cuban Music from Pimienta and Ají in the plaza de España. During the performance, the dignitaries will recieve "la Negra Tomasa", a traditional character who represents the returning Palmerans.

And then there's something called "La Batatita, Las Chancleteras y el Manisero," performed by the students of the Municipal Theatre School.

12:30-2:00 pm. Cuban Music from Son Bohemio in la plaza de la Alameda.

13:00-14:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya in la plaza de España.

14:30 pm. I Festival Pimienta y Ají in la plaza de Santo Domingo with traditional Cuban music from various groups.

14:30-16:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in la plaza de España.

16:00-17:00 pm. Yet more traditional Cuban music from Parranda del Gofio in the Plaza de España.

16:30 pm. Official reception for Los Indianos and the talc battle starts.

17:00 pm. The main procession of Los Indianos from Avenida de Los Indianos (the main road leading south out of town) to the plaza de la Alameda.

17:00-18:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Son Bohemio in the plaza de la Alameda.

17:30-19:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the groups ONG El Cardero Punto Com y Punto on the carnival stage.

18:30-20:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

19:00-20:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya on the carnival stage.

20:00-21:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

21:30-23:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

23:00-00:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

24:00 pm. Public dance with music performed by Salsaludando, Arena Caliente, Geniales and Rica Band on the carnival stage.

00:30-02:00 am. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.



Los Indianos, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Martes, 24 de febrero

17:00 pm. Dance in fancy dress at the Day Centre for Pensioners

19:00 pm. Carnival Festival, with a performances by the La Longuera, Dance School, Ventacayce Cultural Centre, La Palma Dance School, La Encarnación childen's group, Chango Batuka Workshop Calcinas Dance Group and Devorah Velásquez León, at the carnival stage.

Viernes, 27 de febrero

21:00 pm. THE SARDINE'S FUNERAL This is the other crazy night, although the funeral in Santa Cruz seems to be less popular each year, whereas the one in Los Sauces gets more popular (that one's on March 9th this year). Yes, it's a funeral procession for a huge papiere mache sardine, complete with fake priests and moUrners howling with fake grief. It's like being inside a Monty Python sketch. (There's a longer description with photos here)

The funeral procession for Lady Sardine leaves the Plaza de la Alameda at 9p,and heads for the carnival stage. On arrival, the cremation and fireworks (NB the locals stand well back for a good reason!) After that there will be a public dance with music from Salsaludando and Los Geniales at the carnival stage.


Los Llanos de Aridane

MONDAY, February 23
11 a.m. CHILDREN'S WORKSHOP
Plaza de España

4.30 p.m. Parade and children's mask contest
Carnival Scene

10 p.m. Public Dance
with the musical group Libertad and Bolero at the Carnival Stage

TUESDAY, February 24
5 p.m. CARNIVAL COSO
with a carnival groups parades: murgas, comparsas, batucadas, carrozas, etc.
From “La Vera de Argual” to Plaza de España.

WEDNESDAY, Feburary 25
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

THURSDAY, February 26
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

FRIDAY, February 27
9:30 p.m. The Sardine's Funeral (See the description for Sana Cruz, or a longer description with photos here)

The Burial starts at 1:00 p.m. in El Camino Los Lomos – Los Pedregales, from where the funeral procession leaves at 7:00 p.m. towards La Calle Ramón Pol.
Once the funeral procession arrives, the Sardine will e cremated.

10:00 p.m. VERBENA
With Ricaband and Grupo Libertad orchestras at the Carnival Stage



The Sardine'sfuneral, Santa Cruz de la Palma

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Sunday, 24 February 2008

The Funeral at Last!



Last night I went to the delayed Sardine's Funeral in Los Sauces. I finally discovered why people say it's better than the sardine's funeral in Santa Cruz.

They say it because it's true.

The crowd was far bigger than in Santa Cruz, and over half of them wore fancy dress - mostly Halloween theme costumes. This is my hairdresser. I didn't recognise him until he spoke.


First they had a butaca - serious percussion. I took a lot of video, but there wasn't much light and most people were wearing black, so it's not brilliant. I need to learn to edit video.


At the end of the butaca it poured with rain for about ten minutes. Imagine a couple of thousand people all looking for shelter and saying, "Oh no!" all at once. Thankfully it stopped pretty quickly.

Then I wondered about for a bit and had a beer (alcohol free - I was driving).

Then the sardine appeared.


Now in Santa Cruz its a funeral procession, and the mourners are wailing with fake grief, but they're walking in a dignified way.

In Los Sauces, the sardine is being tossed around as though it's on a rough sea. The pall bearers really work up a sweat. I found out the hard way that it gets a fair bit of momentum - the guys at one side can't necesarily stop just because they're going to crash into a photographer. I was glad I only took the compact camera. And the mourners jog and pogo and screech like banshees. It's like Santa Cruz used to be, only better. Monty Python eat your heart out. What's more, there were a couple of smaller sardines brought by groups of kids. The sardine goes around the square twice, and then through the back streets towards the huge new bridge, back along the main street, round the square twice again, and finally onto the bier in the square. The kids' sardines went under the bier.

Of course it ends with the sardine being cremated. And in Los Sauces, the crowd doesn't just watch and cheer. They pogo and boogie and scream again. And there are lots more fireworks.

By then it was one in the morning, so I didn't stop for the public dance. I just ate a sandwich and went home.

Next year I'm going back, and I'm definitely dressing up.

I'll post some video when I've editied it.

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Friday, 8 February 2008

The Sardine's Funeral

Tonight was supposed to be the sardine's funeral in Santa Cruz de la Palma.

This is actually a bizarre finale to Carnival, and as such was traditionally held on Ash Wednesday. (They still do so in Tenerife. See http://www.secret-tenerife.com/2008/02/ash-wednesday-burial-of-sardine.html
But some years ago, Santa Cruz de La Palma started to hold their Sardine's Funeral on
the Friday of Carnival week. Presumably they felt it would be more popular if most people didn't have to work in the morning.

But it's been raining most of the day, so it was postponed. Even if they cancel it, the villageof Los Sauces hold their Sardine's funeral next week. Watch this space.

And in the meantime, you can see pictures of a previous funeral here.

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